SUBVERSIVE PEARLS


I love it when designers reframe and recontextualize classics; a recent favorite trend of mine is the reworked, subversive pearl.

Pearls are culturally loaded; a symbol of feminine sexuality turned bourgeois skirt suit staple, for the past several decades simple strands of pearls have adorned the necks of conservative politicians and ladies of society who don’t wish to present an image too glamorous. Pearls have been the go-to of the understated woman.

But what does an excess of pearls say about its wearer? I used to stack pearl necklaces and bracelets upon one another — but here, two extremely prominent designers are choosing to use pearls to different ends. The Givenchy garments are hemmed in lines of pearls, gently caressing and augmenting the shape of the body, perhaps in homage to Venus. The Gucci handbag and pump are both inlaid with pearls as would be a treasure chest, presenting an eccentric, playful, and dandified amalgam of texture and style — a technique which is giving new life to the brand these days. We may not wear all four pieces together, but I love the tongue in cheek overstatement that an excess of pearls provides.

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